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Pool Terminology
Water Problems
Water
balancing is not such a complicated exercise. It
is simply the relationship between different
chemical parameters. Your water is constantly
changing, year round. Everything from weather
to oils, to dirt, and cosmetics affect you water
balance. You will probably not change the water
in your pool for many years. Continuous
filtration and disinfection removes contaminants
which keep the water enjoyable but this is does
not balance your water. A pool that is "balanced" has
proper levels of pH, Total
Alkalinity, and Calcium
Hardness. It may also be defined as
water that is neither corrosive or scaling. This
concept is derived from the fact that water will
dissolve and hold minerals until it becomes saturated
and cannot hold any more water in solution.
When water is considerably less than saturated
it is said to be in a corrosive or aggressive condition. When
water is over saturated and can no longer hold
the minerals in solution it is in a scaling condition. So
then, balanced water is that which is neither over
or under-saturated. The cliché that
"water seeks its own level" certainly
applies here. Water which is under-saturated will
attempt to saturate itself by dissolving everything
in contact with it in order to build up its content. Water
which is over-saturated will attempt to throw off
some of its content by precipitating minerals out
of solution in the form of scale. How do
we know when our water is over or under saturated? We
use a good test
kit (with fresh testing reagents)
to measure the chemical parameters of pH, alkalinity,
and calcium hardness.
pH
pH is a measure of how acidic or basic
the water is. pH is a logarithmic scale
from 0-14, with 7 being neutral. Below
7 and a substance is defined as being acidic,
while levels above 7 are said to be basic or
alkaline. Everything that enters your
pool has a pH value.
Ever heard of acid rain? This is rainfall
with a very low pH. The human eye at a pH
value of 7.35, is just slightly basic. This
is, coincidentally, in range with proper pH levels
for your pool. To have pH in balance we adjust
the water with additions of pH increasers (bases)
or pH de-creasers (acids) to achieve the range
of 7.2 - 7.8. If your testing (recommended
daily) of the water shows a pH value below 7.2
the water is in a corrosive (acidic) condition
and you will need to add a base to bring the pH
into a more basic range to prevent corrosion. Conversely,
if the pH is above 7.8, we are in a scaling (basic)
condition and must add an acid to bring down the
pH to prevent the formation of scale.
Total Alkalinity
A
close cousin of pH, the level of alkalinity in
the water is a measurement of all carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxides,
and other alkaline substances
found in the pool water. pH is alkaline
dependent; that is, alkalinity is defined as
the ability of the water to resist changes in
pH. Also known as the buffering capacity
of the water, alkalinity keeps the pH from "bouncing" all
over the place. Low alkalinity is raised
by the addition of a base (similar to pH); sodium
bicarbonate is commonly used. High levels
of alkalinity are lowered by the addition of
an acid (similar to pH). Experts recommend
"pooling" the acid in a small area
of low current for a greater effect on alkalinity. That
is, adding an acid will lower both pH and alkalinity. Walking
the acid around the pool in a highly distributed
manner is said to have a greater effect lowering
the pH than the alkalinity. Pooling the acid
has the opposite effect. A very important
component of water balance, alkalinity should
be maintained in the 80-120ppm range for "gunite" and
concrete pools and 125-170ppm for painted,
vinyl, and fiberglass pools. Levels should
be tested weekly.
Calcium Hardness
When
we speak of scale, we are talking about calcium
carbonate which has come out of solution
and deposited itself on surfaces. It is
a combination of carbonate ions,
a part of total alkalinity and calcium, and a
part of the Calcium Hardness level. The
test for Calcium Hardness is a measure of how "hard" or "soft" the
water is testing.
"Hard" water can have high levels
of calcium and magnesium. If
these levels are too high the water becomes
saturated and will throw off excess particles
out of solution which then seeks to deposit
themselves on almost any surface inside the
pool. This is calcium carbonate scale;
a
"white-ish,"
crystallized rough spot. If the levels are
too low, the water is under-saturated.
If under-saturated, the water will become aggressive
as it attempts to obtain the calcium it needs. Such
"soft-water"
will actually corrode surfaces inside the pool
which contain calcium and other minerals to
maintain its hardness demand. If your
Calcium Hardness levels are too high you can
use TSP to lower the levels or a product called Hydroquest
100. It can also be accomplished
by dilution (adding water to the pool which
has a lower calcium hardness content). Levels
which are too low require the addition of calcium
chloride. Recommended range for calcium
hardness is 200-400ppm. Calcium Hardness
levels should be tested weekly.
The Saturation Index
Also
called the Langelier Index, this chemical equation
or formula is used to diagnose the water balance
in the pool. The formula is "SI =
pH + TF + CF + AF - 12.1." To calculate
the Saturation Index, test the water for pH,
temperature, calcium hardness, and total alkalinity. Refer
to a chart for assigned values for your temperature,
hardness, and alkalinity readings then add these
to your pH value. Subtract 12.1, which
is the constant value assigned to Total Dissolved
Solids and a resultant number will be produced. A
result between -0.3 and +0.5 is said to indicate
balanced water. Results outside of these
parameters require adjustment to one or more
chemical components to achieve balance. This
formula is not guaranteed; however, some readings
for pH, calcium, and alkalinity which, if taken
individually would be considered to be well beyond
recommendations, can combine within the formula
to produce "balanced water." The
SI can be used to pinpoint potential water balance
problems.