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Pool Lights
1968 was the year that
the National Electrical Code (NEC) finally decided to include
swimming pools in their standards and regulations (article 680). If
your pool was built prior to 1968, there likely exists some
sub-standard electrical design for your underwater lighting and
filter pump. You may wish to update this at some point for safety
reasons.
Most
local electrical codes require that
electrical work be performed by a
licensed electrician. The electrician
wires it up to the breaker box or
sub-panel, and then take it from there to
the load.
Remember that water and electricity don't mix. If you notice
anything that "looks" questionable or possibly hazardous, have it
checked out immediately.
Underwater Lighting
UW lights have become a common, standard item in all pools. There
are many manufacturers of light fixtures on the market, including
Pac-Fab (now owned be Pentair), Hayward, American Products and Sta-rite
(now owned by Pentair). Smaller, halogen
lamps are now being installed, as well as fiber optic decorative lighting that can run above or below water.
Your
UW lighting should give you few problems. Most bulbs will
burn for 1,000 hours before re-lamping is necessary. The light fixture itself can last
several decades, however, corrosive
pool chemistry can weaken the
fixture and the screws which hold it together, and this may necessitate replacement.
The light fixture is gasket sealed to prevent water from reaching
the bulb behind the lens, however water surrounds the entire fixture, keeping it cool. Do
not operate the light for more than one second without it being fully submerged. The light
requires submersion to prevent overheating.
The fixture sits inside of a "bucket" turned on its
side, towards the pool, called the light niche. The niche is larger than the fixture
itself to allow room for several feet of cord to be coiled up behind the fixture.
The excess cord makes it possible to
bring the fixture up on deck for service
and repair.
The light niche also provides the threaded hole that accepts the screw which holds the
light into place. In the back of the niche is where the wiring conduit connects from the fixture to the junction box, located at least 3 ft back and 18" above water level.
The junction box is where the wires from the light (load) connect with the wires
from the breaker panel (line). This box should be water and child proof.
Light doesn't turn on?
Check all breakers, fuses, switches and Ground
Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlets. Frequently, a GFCI outlet is wired into the
UW light circuit. If the GFCI 'red button' has popped out, the power will not continue on
towards the light. Ensure all of these switches are in the ON position. If you find that a
breaker or fuse or GFCI continues to trip, and the light will not come on, you should call
for service at this point to determine where this irregularity is originating. If all
switches are on, but we have no light, we'd want to remove the fixture from the niche and
inspect the bulb for continuity (Of course, we have turned all switches / breakers OFF at
this point). Burnt bulbs are replaced with identical voltage bulbs of either 12
volts or 120 volts.
12 volt bulbs are 300 watts, while 120 volt bulbs are available in either 300 or 500 watts. These
are medium based, reflective flood lamps of special design. Do not use your garden variety
flood lamp bulb.
Water behind the lens?
This is a startling observation for many to see. Many
times the lamp continues to burn even with water surrounding the bulb. If you notice a
line of water in the lens, the fixture should be removed. Allow the lamp to dry out and
replace the gasket.
You
may notice one hot summer evening that the pool light has attracted bugs
all the way to the deep end!
To change an underwater light bulb, here's the process:
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Shut off power at the breaker, and also at any other switches.
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It is not necessary to lower the water level. Most all light fixtures
have enough cord coiled up inside of the light niche to allow the fixture to
be brought up onto the coping stone for repair. Remove the single stainless
steel screw at the top of the light (at 12 o'clock). Once this is removed,
use a flathead screwdriver to pry the fixture out of the niche. Most
fixtures have a tab at the bottom (at 6 o'clock). You may need to pry and
wiggle in the direction of the tab to remove the fixture. Once removed, lift
it up onto the coping stone.
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Now we will go inside of the fixture. Use quality tools of proper size,
so as not to strip any of the soft metal screws, bolts, etc. On very old
fixtures, screws may break easily, or be corroded from years of water and
chemical exposure. Old model lights have 8 brass screws around the fixture,
which tighten down on tabs. Newer models have a clamp band with only one
screw or bolt/nut. Remove the screws or
clamp and gently pry the glass lens
out of the front of the fixture.
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After the lens is removed, remove the bulb. Most will twist out counter-clockwise.
Some spa lamps or small halogen lamps for pools have small bulbs that you need to push in
and then twist to remove. Whatever it's type, be careful in removing the bulb, old
bulbs may break at the base during removal. It's good practice to cover the
bulb with a soft cloth before turning it (counter-clockwise to remove).
After removing the bulb, use the cloth to wipe clean and dry all interior
surfaces. Thread in a new bulb, specifically made for the fixture. Don't use
something other than the real thing.
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Before reassembly, turn on power Very
Briefly (for 1 - 2 seconds) to check
that the bulb/lamp is working.
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Reassemble the lens onto the fixture,
using a NEW lens gasket. This is
the rubber gasket around the lens, approx 8" diameter. Complete the
reassembly of the fixture. Make sure screws are very tight. Follow any
printed instructions on the lens for proper alignment of lens to fixture.
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Place
light under water and check for air
leaks (a few bubbles may come
off of the fixture ring). If you have no bubbles streaming out of your
gasket, you have a good seal.
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Replace the fixture into the niche.
First coil the cord around the back
of the fixture, then locate the bottom tab (on the fixture) and tab receiver
(on the niche). Line them up and insert the tab into position, and push the
fixture flush into the niche. Then it's just the "not always simple" task of
getting the top screw back in through the light bezel ring and into the
threaded hole in the niche. Tighten screw down just snug (not too tight).
Test your light again.
(continued........)
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