Acid Washing
Also called a drain & clean, an acid
wash becomes necessary if the pool has
turned into the "black lagoon". This may
occur if the
winterizing process is not done
properly, or if the pool has been
stagnant for a period of time so that
algae has taken over. If you notice
scaly, man-phibian creatures splashing
around out back, it's probably time to
drain & clean.
Our
general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is: if
you can see the bottom of the pool (the floor) then you can bring it
back with chemicals, labor and filtering. If the floor is not visible,
the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the
acid wash charge, and take much, much longer. Also, extensive algae
blooms will stain plastered pools, making an acid wash desirable.
An acid
wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster,
exposing fresh
plaster
beneath. Therefore, it is ill-advised to make it an annual custom, which
will accelerate the need for re-plastering. Most plaster coats
(sometimes called whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2", so a few
careful acid washes should not hurt. Pools can also be bleach washed,
pressure washed or treated with citric acid.
You may
also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, but just to
bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits,
chlorine stains, even dirt stains...an acid wash is always a dramatic
aesthetic improvement.
If your
pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae
overnight or just bloom very easily....changing the water and acid
washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer.
Acid
is a dangerous substance. Pool company personnel are specially trained
in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus
during the acid wash. To protect our
environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with
soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location.
If you
decide to drain and clean your own pool, make sure that the
hydrostatic relief plugs are pulled as soon as possible, and that the
water is pumped to a distant location, or into a storm drain. You may
also need to check with local water authorities for waste water
discharge regulations.
AS
you drain the pool, wash it down (scrub if necessary) to remove all
algae and leaves. Bag up all leaves and debris in the pool's bottom.
When the pool is clean and empty, you can begin to acid wash the
plaster. Put on protective clothing and rubber boots, goggles and wear a
breathing mask designed for acid fumes.
Add 1
gallon acid to 1 gallon water in a flower watering can (Always add acid
to water, never the other way around). Wet down the wall with a hose.
Keep the hose(s) running at all times, without a nozzle on it.
Pour the acid/water mixture down the wall, from top to bottom, one 10
foot section at a time. Do not allow the acid to sit on the plaster for
very long. Usually 30 seconds is long enough. Use an acid brush to scrub
the surfaces and move the acid around. Rinse quickly and thoroughly.
Make sure acid is rinsed completely, as
it will continue to etch the plaster.
Also try to prevent the acid from
wearing a channel path from shallow end
to deep end. This can create a worn
stripe on the floor.
If the
50/ 50 mixture isn't strong enough, you can increase the acid strength
or the hang time (before rinsing), or scrub harder. Usually pools are
acid washed twice with the same strength mixture. Remember that you
don't want to damage or "burn" the plaster.
After the
acid wash, the bottom of the pool will be filled with a foamy, acid
puddle. This needs to be neutralized before pumping out. Use 2 lbs of
soda ash per 1 gallon of acid used. Broadcast the ash over the puddle
while stirring with a pool brush on a pole. Use a small submersible pump
with a hose to pump out the remaining acid water. Be careful where you
pump it to. Even if properly neutralized, it may destroy plants or kill
fish, frogs, etc. Rinse the bowl again, and re-pour the bowl of the deep
end to clean up well around the drain, being careful not to burn the
plaster too much.
Don't rush the job and be safe. The
fumes can be very strong, and very
dangerous. Be sure to wear a respirator
that will block muriatic acid fumes,
goggles or safety glasses and protective
clothing. Wear old shoes, or rubber
boots. Spray off before exiting the
pool. Transporting the acid from the
store to the house can be hazardous
also. Secure the load in the vehicle.
Always have a second person nearby when
acid washing the pool. If acid drops
enter the mouth or eye, rinse with the
hose for 15 mins, without a nozzle
on it. Acid on the skin won't usually
burn too much, just rinse quickly, for
30 seconds.
It is advised that you pay a service
company to perform this for you.
If your pool is
vinyl lined, acid is not used.
Detergents, conditioners and good 'ol
elbow grease will remove the "slime".
The liner must then be "reset" with a
vacuum to ensure proper fit during
filling. Liner pools are normally not
drained completely if it can be helped.
There can be problems getting the liner
to reset properly, and there is the rare
danger of the walls collapsing.
Complete drain & clean charges average
$600. Higher costs may be seen for large
amounts of debris in the pool, excessive
neglect, or larger sized pools. Lower
costs will be realized for clean or
empty pools, or localized acid washings.
If your water is from a well, you may
elect to refill the pool with trucked -
in water. Expect to pay about $150 per
5,000 gallons. If you refill from the
hose; water costs are a few dollars per
thousand gallons. Contact your water
authority to let them know you are
filling the pool and they may not charge
you for the sewer, only the water
portion of the bill.
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